Volume Three, Number Three
Huber's: Keeping A Dream Alive
Portland, Oregon 1879- 1958 -- The following is one of a continuing series of food articles sponsored jointly by The Oregonian and the Chefs de Cuisine Society of Portland, Outstanding recipes from Oregon and Southern Washington restaurants are features in this articles, after having been tried, tested and approved by a special Chef's Choice committee of the Chefs de Cuisine Society.
Chef's Choice
--Portland's Oldest Restaurant Going Strong--1958--Ask any old-timer what's the oldest restaurant in Portland operating under the same management and almost without exception the answer will be Huber's. Today carrying on the traditions of this fine old restaurant is owner and operator Andrew Louie.
Though of Chinese descent the Louies serve Chinese food -- egg foo yung and mushroom chicken -- only occasionally. Their specialties continue to be roast turkey, baked ham and their famous crab cole slaw. Huber's was the first restaurant in Portland to serve turkey the year around. Hanging prominently on one wall of the restaurant is a portrait of Uncle Jim carving turkey. The painting was done by Stewart Church of Oswego.
Open every day except Sundays, (now open on Sundays) Huber's is a favorite luncheon place of Portland's business men -- bankers, lawyers, judges. Many more women, however, are enjoying the food and atmosphere of Huber's than in the old days according to Louie. He is looking forward to a big Thanksgiving day when Huber's as usual will serve turkey dinner and all the trimmings.
In sharing his recipe for cole slaw and his method for roasting turkey, Louie explained that the mayonnaise for the cole slaw dressing is home made. He emphasized that the slaw should be well chilled before serving.
Huber's Roast Turkey
Clean turkey thoroughly by rubbing with salt and rinsing with water. Sprinkle turkey both inside and outside with salt and poultry seasoning. Use poultry seasoning sparingly. Cut up pieces of celery and onion and place inside of turkey. Truss bird securely. Place bird in greased, uncovered pan. Sprinkle cooking oil over bird. Roast in hot oven, 400 degrees, until bird is brown. Add water or turkey broth to pan, cover bird with aluminum foil and continue roasting at 325 degrees until bird is tender. Baste turkey from time to time during roasting. For crisp skin do not baste breast too much. A 22 pound bird should be done in about four hours. --Nancy Morris, Oregonian
Huber's Celebrates 80 Years
--Spot Same Since 1911--1959 -- Among the celebrated eating emporiums of the world is Luchows* in New York City -- famed for its German food and known by its curiously Chinese name. And one of the best known dining rooms in Portland is Huber's -- known by its German name, its well-prepared food, and, again curiously perhaps, run by a couple of Chinese descent. The "curiousness" does not end there.
For Huber's this year celebrates its 80th anniversary of serving the Portland public and thereby joins Luchows* -- more than a century old -- as one of the antiquities of American restaurants.
Proprietor Andrew Louie and his wife Amy set table Friday to honor the occasion. The setting included three items that have brought Huber's its reputation: baked ham, turkey and crab cole slaw.
It has been situated in the same, snug secure location in the literal middle of the Builder's Exchange Building (Pioneer Building today) since 1911 with a street entry at 320 SW Stark St. (Located on corner of 3rd & SW Stark.)The Louies are today sole owners of the restaurant which Andrew bought into through his uncle Jimmie Louie, one-time associate of John Huber (son of the reputable founder). Uncle Jimmie's portrait graces one wall of Huber's and his talent as a chef is remembered. He died in 1946.
Chinese food? Or American-styled Chinese food?
The Louies have served some in the past and may serve more in the future. But they're content to move into Huber's second 80 years with more German baked ham and turkey. --William R. Swing, Oregonian
*Editor's Note: We received an email 1/6/99 from a woman who corrected this information. It is the Oregonian's article that is in error, but we appear to have carried this error forward in time. It now stands corrected. Thank you, Susi!
Dear Sir or Madam,
With reference to the above (Huber's) page, it mentions something about Luchows in New York. My husband's parents owned that restaurant for some years. Just for your information, I know that Luchows sounds Chinese, but in fact it isn't. It's a place in Germany and is spelled with an unlaut over the "u".Thought you'd like to know. The connection you made, isn't quite what it looks.
Regards,
Susi Richter
Sydney, Australia
These stories are just a few in this special four-page edition and the paper carries many great photographs collected by Huber's over the years. When you visit Huber's Cafe on the corner of SW Stark and Third Avenue in beautiful downtown Portland, pick up your complimentary copy of the Historical Gazette. If you have the pleasure of meeting James Louie be sure to tell him you read about Huber's on our web site. I'm sure he will be pleased. One word of warning, Thanksgiving is the busiest day of the year at Huber's Cafe. Some customers make their reservations a year in advance, so don't try to "drop" in then. A new section has made it easier to get a table. In 1997, Huber's expanded into newly vacated space in the Pioneer building. Lucky for them it had a connecting wall, Huber's now has a street entrance on SW Third Avenue. It's a grand space and feels very much like the old portion of the cafe. My favorite section for lunching is the old bar section.
Bridget E. Smith, editor & publisher
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Historical Gazette
Published in Portland, Oregon
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